photography umbrella vs softbox
A Flashgun is a bit of essential kit for the serious photographer. Unfortunately, when mounted on a camera pointed directly at someone's face it may give unpleasant results. You've probably seen it yourself, the flat lighting, deep shadows, skin and eyes bright red name a few.
There are two possible solutions to this, it is to bounce your flash off a ceiling or a wall nearby. The second which gives more control, is to get the Flashgun the device off completely.
For a camera off you will need Flashgun five things:
- Flashgun with a decent output. Look for the "Guide Number" (GN) to see how much power your device off. For example, a Nikon Speedlight SB800 has a GN of 56 is sufficient if it is a higher than GN even better. You'll probably be able to pick up an older Flashgun Secondhand do everything for very little money. It need not be compatible with your camera, just be able to adjust the output manually.
- A light modifier. This may be an umbrella, a light box or other small for various products manufactured. This is used to smooth, direct and control the quality of your light. I usually use a 48 "umbrella with a removable silver lining. You can be the fire of lightning in the frame or removing the lining and pull through it, giving two different qualities light.
- A support for fixing the Flashgun and umbrella on a stand. I've found one product that is ideal for this: the "Bogen 2905 Swivel Umbrella Adapter f / Super Clamp "made by Manfrotto. You'll also need a shoe little Mont another adapter to connect the Flashgun to the consoles, available in most camera stores.
- A small stand portable lightweight, but large enough not to fall when you have joined an umbrella.
- One way to trigger the flash. This will probably depend on your budget. The cheapest way to do it with a cord between the plug to the computer (if you have one) of your camera and Flashgun. Radio triggers are my preferred option, you can get a very Cheap eBay went for about £ 20.00 or pay several hundred more professional unit. They all work, the lowest may need a bit of glue, from time to time. They consist of two or more units, the transmitter goes in the shoe of your camera, the receiver can be connected one or more flashes. You can also use infra red slave triggers and other building elements in the system. Take a look at your Flashgun and see What it can do.
Then you must configure your lights. Set up the stand, attach the hook and drag flash and umbrella. Connect your trigger selected and tested. You should now have a very flexible system of portable lighting.
For your first shots to ensure that the framework is defined as far as possible from the flash unit. The farther the umbrella, the More light source, a larger light source, a light softer and more natural. Set the power of your flash manually to quarter or half-power and make fair trial, you'll soon get an idea of the creation you need. Always use a manual for this technique, TTL will not work.
Find a topic ready and start experimenting. Move your light around them and see how it affects mood image. Set the flash on top and slightly off center and you get a soft light and pleasant. When you move around each side your subject, it will become darker on one side of the face and start looking more gloomy. Provide lightning close to the subject and the light becomes softer, move it back and get a stronger effect.
Try different modifiers, see what you want. You can also using a bare flash, when it is off the camera, it is a more useful tool. You can bounce off a wall, or to look really hard, head straight towards the subject.
Do not forget to take the ambient light (light that is already there) into account. You can choose to overwrite your Flash, you can put in balance, so you use both light sources. Flash is very, very quickly if the speed adjustment device photo will be done solely on ambient light, the opening will affect ambient and flash together. Once you get your head around that you will exercise much control over lighting combination.
If you like this portrait is an excellent way to ensure you have a source of quality light available at any time. You can make your shots appear to have been taken in a studio or you can give them a truly natural look, the possibilities are endless. Get that flash off your camera today!
David Perris is an established wedding, press and corporate photographer based in Brighton, Sussex. Visit his website at http://www.luckydogphoto.com/wedding-photographer.html for examples of wedding photography and advice. David also posts selections of recent work on his blog at http://www/luckydogphoto.com/blog/
(c) Copyright David Perris 2009
Shooting model Elitsa with a softbox and an umbrella in studio
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